We stagger from the train onto the platform. Our uncle waves, hurries to us and sweeps each of us in turn into his arms. He actually lifts my 6 year old up off the ground and she giggles, although normally she would shy away. Thoroughly greeted, we lug our bags to his car and quickly we are at his flat. I've spent many happy hours here with him and his family, watching the kids race the hallway over the years, shaking our heads equally at American and German politics, comparing notes on living in cities in both countries. This place feels like home. We bulldoze our way through an impressive array of cakes and coffee, then leave on the subway to meet our aunt for dinner.
The walk from the train station, past the Reeperbahn red light district, and Hamburg Harbor, one of the busiest in Europe, into one of the oldest sections of town, is fiercely hot and too long for our American legs. They have selected a favorite of destination of theirs on a canal across from the Warehouse district in the historic Deichstrasse. 'Te Briezh' is a Brittany inspired restaurant serving sweet crepes and savory gallettes. The former may be filled with your choice of Nutella or strawberries and topped with ice cream, for example, and the latter is a buckwheat version of the crepe, to be filled with a vast array of meat, veg and in most cases, goat cheese. We feast and wash it all down with mildly alcoholic apple cider.
Fortified, we begin the walk back over many canals, window shopping past the Rathaus (City Council) and several wonderful churches. The next day we will ride an elevator to the top of the most famous in the city, St. Michael's for a windswept 360° view of it all.
Our last notable moments in Hamburg are spent in Blankenese; winding streets lined with magnificent villas lead to the Elbe, one of Hamburg's rivers. As we emerge from the hot pedestrian traffic around the train station into the leafy sidestreets leading to the water, we happen upon a secondhand shop. In front of the shop, which is cute as a button and begged exploration, stands for sale a scooter. It is the sturdy German vehicle that virtually all children ride before they can handle a bicycle. The "Roller" is yellow with black stripes, based a familiar cartoon character. My 6 year old daughter and I fall instantly in love. I negotiate a reasonably price and suddenly the sun is shining only for her. Stylish and mobile, she is only too happy to let the silly grown ups goggle the homes and gardens. We stop for ice cream and promenade the river. Life is good.
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